"In a car you're always in a compartment, and because you're used to it
you don't realize that through that car window everything you see is
just more TV. You're a passive observer and it is all moving by you
boringly in a frame. On a cycle the frame is gone. You're completely
in contact with it all. You're in the scene, not just watching
it anymore, and the sense of presence is overwhelming. That concrete
whizzing by 5 inches below your foot is the real thing, the same stuff
you walk on, it's right there, so blurred you can't focus on it, yet
you can put your foot down and touch it anytime, and the whole thing,
the whole experience, is never removed from immediate consciousness."
Robert Persig, Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance.
I have visited a lot of places
on my motorcycles, from the north rim of the Grand Canyon to the Cabot
Trail in northern Nova Scotia including a little side trip to "Meat
Cove", where the road just ended at a cliff overlooking the St.
Lawrence Bay. Since about 1970 or so, at least 95% of my riding, however,
is within a long weekend of where I live. This is Chicken Run country.
That area includes VA, WV, MD, Southwest PA, a little corner of southeast
Ohio, the eastern third of TN and KY, and the western third of NC. This
is Appalachia - great riding country! Motorcyclists from all over come
here to ride. A great road can be any length. In my case it ranges from
the 480-mile Blue Ridge Parkway to a short street near where I live.
Other CR participants may have their favorites, but here in no particular
order are my favorite roads in the Chicken Run riding area.
U.S. 219 from Huttonsville
to Slaty Fork (Snowshoe), WV either direction. This highway has
a bit of everything - long see-through sweepers that can be taken at
whatever speed your courage and skills allow, tight steep blind twisties
that always get my full concentration and gentle straight-aways where
you can relax and watch the scenery or pass the occasional 4-wheeler.
This is my kind of road. The road is usually well maintained making
it smooth and predictable. Traffic is usually light compared to other
US highways in the area. I always seem to hit this stretch coming south
late in the afternoon and north early in the morning. Either way is
great. Five miles off this road is the Snowshoe ski resort. It's a great
place to spend the night in the hot summer. This is where we stay on
most CRs. There used to be a world class restaurant up there. The
"Red Fox" was rated by ?Fodars Travel Guide" as one
of the 25 best restaurants in the country! But alas, the owners must
have decided they could make more money running a place a little lower
on the scale. Even so, there are still a few very good restaurants on
top of the mountain. Route 219 from Slaty Fork to Marlinton, though
very nice, didn't make my favorites list only because many of the tighter
curves are often strewn with gravel - mostly due to guys in 4-wheel
drive pickups with over-sized tires who can't seem to stay on the pavement.
There is not so much on the northern section.
Highland Scenic Highway,
route 150 between US 219 and 55/39 in WV either direction. Even
though the speed limit is 45, this is a good place to find out how well
your bike is running if you dare. There are high-speed sweepers with
plenty of visibility and very low traffic. There is certainly no reason
to go less than 45. Be especially careful though in early morning
and late evening. There is plenty of wildlife around. It's also a great
place to stop at an overlook and enjoy the coolness and quiet of the
high elevation. In fact, all of this part of WV is like a quick trip
to Canada, and nobody lives up here. I have heard that this is the second
largest wilderness area east of the Mississippi, the area in northern
Maine being the only one larger.
Route 55/39 from WV 150
to Richwood, WV. After being on the Highland Scenic Highway, riding
down from the higher elevations on these gentle sweepers along the babbling
brook gives the feeling of gliding in for a landing after a fast high
flying airplane ride. This is probably my favorite stretch in the fall
because the colors are so rich along here. I think the colors are so
great because it rains a lot here. There's something about this micro-climate
that if it is raining anywhere in the area, this stretch of road will
get the most of it. Going the opposite direction (towards 150) doesn't
seem as ethereal for some reason.
Back Mountain Road between
Edray (just north of Marlinton on 219) and Cass, WV either direction.
This tiny, single lane, narrow, slow-going but paved road is just simply
a beautiful place to be, deep in the heart of the WV forest. My blood
pressure seems to drop a few points every time I cruise through there
- and it is definitely a cruising road. When you get to Cass, stop and
get an ice cream cone at the country store. A ride on the scenic railroad
is not out of the question either. If I retired there in my favorite
little valley just east of Edray, I think I would live at least 10 years
longer. Though I have never stayed there, part-way through the stretch
in the little village of Stony Bottom, population probably about 12,
is actually a 4-room motel. Talk about getting away from it all!
Highway 33 about 30 miles
west of Harrisonburg, VA to the WV border on top of the mountain.
This is seven miles of steep up-hill elevation gain to get into WV.
There are many tight well-banked twisters and even a few places you
can blast around the creeping trucks and 4-wheelers. This was my buddy
and CR cofounder John Lyons' best road. By that I mean that there are
some roads that seem to fit different riders better than others. They
seem to ride them better than other roads. I could never keep up with
Lyons when he headed for the top of this mountain. The WV side of the
mountain is only 3 miles and not near as interesting as the VA side.
Keep going, however, toward Brandywine, WV. At the bottom of the mountain,
watch for a little restaurant on the left called "The Cabin"
(shown above). They make world class homemade pies there. Brandywine
is the site of the chicken in "Chicken Run". On the 3rd
leg of the CR (the Fall Foliage Tour) when there is no chicken at the
firehouse or when they sell out before we get there, we usually have
lunch here.
Highway 28 from Judy Gap,
WV (just west of Franklin) to Bartow, then Greenbank, WV. This is
one of those roads I just love, but I'm not quite sure why. There are
few really challenging twisty curves to test ones skill, or spectacular
vistas to photograph. It's just a ride through the woods. Maybe it's
because, starting at Judy Gap, you start to slowly gain elevation ever
so slightly without realizing it. Before you know it you are over 4,000
ft. (OK, for you people out west, this is pretty high for the East Coast.)
Maybe its because I have ridden the stretch between 33 and 250 (25 miles
or so) many times when the number of cars I met and passed totaled less
than 5. Maybe its because you can often see herds of deer grazing in
the fields. Maybe its because when its October in the late afternoon
and the sun hits the trees just right, its like riding through a canyon
of neon lights. When you get to Bartow, you can turn right just over
the bridge to a fairly nice Motel and restaurant ("The Hermitage")
and an Exxon station next door. If you turn left and go to Greenbank,
it's worthwhile to stop at the National Radio Observatory, run by the
National Science Foundation and take a free tour. The last time I took
the tour they had finished building a fully mobile new dish antenna
that is 100 meters in diameter! It is, of course, named after Sen. Robert
Byrd, as is many other things in WV. It is one place where you can talk
to people about SETI (Search for Extraterrestrial Intelligence) without
getting laughed at.
Highway 28 from the Cass,
WV turnoff to the intersection with Rt. 39 near Marlinton, WV. This
road goes through a scenic valley of small farms and woodlands. There
are no steep mountains to go up or down. The road just follows the land,
which is rolling hilly. The two words that come to mind are, "meandering"
and "undulating". There are no really abrupt curves so one
can take it pretty fast, (and I got a speeding ticket here once. I deserved
it.), but the direction is constantly moving. Down left, up right, little
dip, left, right, left, - there is a rhythm to this road. At high speed
my adrenaline is flowing fast. It's more like making love to the road
than riding it. YEEE-HAAAA!
Highway 20 from Buckhanon
to Webster Springs, WV. There is a bit of congestion around Buckhanon,
but you get out of that after 5 miles or so. Then the fun begins. There
are at least three mountain passes to go over before getting to Webster
Springs, a distance of about 25 miles. The surface is usually in good
condition and it is very challenging. This is the road for you if you
like a lot of up and down curves. The only negative about this road
is that often there is a good bit of traffic. Plan to hit this road
in the morning to minimize traffic congestion. Traffic is so slow however
one can often "dive-bomb" a pass because you can often see
through the curve. A dive bomb is accomplished on a left hand curve
when you can see through the curve. If no traffic is coming, you just
dive the bike over to the left and cut the corner coming out fast just
like a dive bomber. We often stop just west of Webster Springs for lunch
at a hamburger joint that makes great burgers and milkshakes. Yum!
All of the above roads can
be ridden on a normal 3-day weekend Chicken Run. Sometimes, however,
the CR is combined with other roads usually to the south for a longer
ride, like maybe a week or more. On these occasions, the following are
added to my favorites list.
Blue Ridge Parkway from
Cherokee, NC to Waynesboro, VA either direction. This, of course,
is probably on everybody's list that lives in the East. It seems inadequate
that the BRP is mentioned only once. I could break it into 25-mile segments
and they would all make my favorites list. There's something a little
different every 25 miles or so, and it goes on for almost 500. In addition
to great scenery, the road is always in good repair and there is rarely
gravel on the road because they let the grass grow right up to the edge
of the pavement. Like route 150 in WV, the only negative is the 45-MPH
speed limit. My experience is that it is benignly enforced, not too
stringently. Besides, this is the kind of road that invites one to take
it easy and smell the roses. And, there are plenty of flowers, especially
in the spring and late summer. For serious sport riding, an added bonus
is the roads that run back and forth across the parkway, up and down
the mountains, which are more technically challenging than the parkway
itself. Equipped with the right kind of bike and a DeLorme contour map,
one can even find some interesting dirt roads off the parkway to explore.
One could easily spend a week along the parkway and side roads with
very little backtracking. I highly recommend staying overnight at one
of the motels on the parkway. At sundown, one can sit on the balcony
or patio, which is attached to almost all rooms and watch the deer grazing
in the meadow. No TV, telephone or highway noise, except the occasional
Harley in the distance, interrupts one's reverie. I recall one clear
spring night with Dave Sulser, at Otter's Peak sitting on the patio
with a spectacular view of the Hale Bopp comet. We sat there and swigged
Cognac while we watched the comet. Very peaceful. Incidentally, Skyline
Drive, which continues from Wayneboro to Front Royal, VA does not make
my favorites list because of the crowds, the Winnebagos, the toll and
the more strictly enforced 35 MPH speed limit.
The Cherahola Skyway near
the NC/TN border. This road was added to my favorites list in October
1999 when I rode the Cherahola for the first time. The Cherahola is
sort of a cross between the route 150 Scenic Highway of WV and the Blueridge
Parkway. Spectacular vistas high in the Smokies with paved fast sweepers
one after another. My original plan in '99 was to make it part of a
loop on a ride out of my motel in Townsend, TN. After riding it though,
I turned right around and rode it in the opposite direction. After that
ride, the Cherahola went from a road I had heard about, to a road near
the top of my all time favorite motorcycle roads. What a ride!
Highway 129 for 11 miles
west of Deals Gap, NC either direction. Almost all of the
road is in TN but it is known as "Deal's Gap" and many consider
it motorcycle heaven. Anybody who lives east of the big river and considers
him or herself a serious sport or sport-touring motorcyclist has probably
been there. If you haven't, you really need to go there. It is
nationally known with 318 curves in 11 miles. In fact, the only negative
about this road is that it has become too popular. I wouldn't
recommend going there on a weekend in good weather. I'm always too busy
to count the curves, but I do know there are no straight stretches and
according to my calculations, that's one curve every 183 feet, which
sounds about right. Not only is it curvy, it is well-banked, clean surface,
good visibility around most of the curves and serious fun in either
direction. 4-wheel traffic is usually low, and the locals seem to understand
what's going on. Most will pull over to the shoulder when they see an
impatient rider behind them. Once I overtook three guys in pickups,
but they didn't look like they wanted to let me by. "Oh no!",
I thought. I'm going to have problems getting around these guys. It
turns out they were racing. I thoroughly enjoyed following and watching
the race. I had little trouble keeping up with them on my Beemer, but
these guys knew how to drive those pickups. This is the cream of the
crop of roads in that area. It is in the heart of many other great roads,
too, generally in the Smoky Mountain National Park area. Gatlinburg,
TN is a great place to have dinner and unwind after a tense day of Deal's
Gap type of riding.
Yes, most of my favorites are
in the great state of West, BG, Virginia. Of course, the main reason
is that the CR is centered there. Another reason is that the 2-lane
paved highways are usually in pretty good condition, well marked and
the traffic is low. Several years ago, I was watching one of those news
magazine shows. I believe it was "20/20". One of the reporters
was interviewing Senator Robert Byrd from WV. Senator Byrd has so much
seniority in the senate and is still somewhat lucid, that he wields
considerable power. The reporter pointed out to him that in one year,
he was able to get fully 50% of the available Federal highway construction
funds for WV. Senator Byrd just said one word, "infrastructure!"
After watching that program and after a good day of riding the WV highways,
I proposed a toast to Sen. Byrd and explained to my biker buddies why.
Another tradition started. Now we almost always toast Sen. Byrd after
a good day in WV.
For more Chicken Run information, visit http://www.thechickenrun.com
Additional features will be added to this site, so please visit regularly. If you have an recommendations on pertinent content, please email the webmaster directly, and we will try to incorporate those additions.
Thanks, and we'll see you in Snowshoe! (rest up)
GTS Rally 2003
This site brought to you by:
|